Funcionan bien pero son C Pin, no B Pin como dice el título del artículo. El material es de buena calidad.

Funcionan bien pero son C Pin, no B Pin como dice el título del artículo. El material es de buena calidad.

Funcionan bien pero son C Pin, no B Pin como dice el título del artículo. El material es de buena calidad.

Funcionan bien pero son C Pin, no B Pin como dice el título del artículo. El material es de buena calidad.

Funcionan bien pero son C Pin, no B Pin como dice el título del artículo. El material es de buena calidad.

Funcionan bien pero son C Pin, no B Pin como dice el título del artículo. El material es de buena calidad.

Funcionan bien pero son C Pin, no B Pin como dice el título del artículo. El material es de buena calidad.

Funcionan bien pero son C Pin, no B Pin como dice el título del artículo. El material es de buena calidad.

The replacement motor that most vendors list for my Sharp model SMC1452CH microwave oven costs $30+. For less than half that cost, this motor did the job, but a little modification was necessary. The motor's output shaft was just a tiny bit too thick for the plastic coupler (the thing inside the oven that drives the turntable) to slide onto. I filed on the flat side of the shaft for a couple of minutes with a medium fine rasp, and that made everything fit together nicely. The electrical plug matched up perfectly with the connectors on the motor, and the attachment to the chassis of the microwave was identical to the original.The only other difference is that my OEM motor rotated at 4.8 RPM, and this one is rated at 6 RPM, but I really don't think that makes a difference. The motor works smoothly and silently and hopefully has breathed a few more years of life into my 6 year old microwave.You might consider also replacing the light bulb while you're at it. The bulb for my Sharp only lasted about 3 years and is hard to find. Luckily, Amazon has them for a reasonable price:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08736YYKV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsDepending on the make and model of your microwave, the cover might be held in place by tamper-resistant screws. If so, you will need a special driver to remove them. You can find a set of these drivers here on Amazon for about $15:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RN1VSJL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1If you want to replace those tamper-resistant screws with normal ones, for my Sharp they were 4 mm screws, 8 - 10 mm long, and with a standard 0.7 thread pitch. Your local hardware store should have them.The reason for the tamper-resistant fasteners is to protect you from electrical shock that can come from the capacitor inside. It is dangerous even when the oven is unplugged because capacitors store electrical charge. If you undertake this replacement yourself, please proceed with caution! You can find a video on how to discharge the capacitor on YouTube.

Very happy with it. I forgot about this with is a good thing. Installed it original location using factory hardware. No modification required has been inoperative for several months with no issue. Works like the original for a fraction of the price.

todo bien en mi compra, es marca original.

Todo muy bien, es refacción original

Très bonne

Il vous suffit de trouver le morceau. Une trouvaille chez Amazon.

Este motor me ayudó a no desechar un horno de microondas, no soy técnico, solo con la muestra pude localizar este producto y todo muy bien.

For about $20 and a few minutes time, I was able to repair the broken turntable on my lightly used 18 mth old GE Countertop Microwave model JES1657SM1 SS.I was astonished that the turntable on my GE microwave stopped working when it was not even 2 years old (plus wasn’t subjected to heavy use). So I did a little online research and learned that a broken turntable motor was one of the main reasons a turntable stopped working. I then tried to find a replacement motor part, but was told by GE that they didn’t sell any replacement parts for this item (really?… wow, way to manufacture products so they’re obsolete in two years. Yeah, why wouldn’t consumers want to replace their microwave every two years? … here, take my wallet). Sadly, I wasn’t even able to find a replacement part on any of the larger 3rd-party repair parts sites (inputting the model number on the various sites didn’t produce a list of replacement part items).Then I decided to see if I could easily remove the motor, study it for model number, etc. and try to buy a replacement on Amazon. Thankfully, I was successful. The only small issue I had was that, in addition to buying the new motor, I also had to buy a new turntable coupler (i.e., the small, 3- armed piece of plastic that the glass plate sits on and is rotated by inside the microwave cavity). Despite being the same model number as the old motor, the shaft on the replacement part was slightly wider so my original coupler wouldn’t fit on it. I didn’t want to attempt to use a dremel to file down the shaft on the new motor part, as I wasn’t confident that I’d end up with a workable shaft, so I spent less than $9 on a turntable coupler 2-pack that ended up being the right size. The coupler was purchased on Amazon. A picture of it and its packaging is shown in the attached picture, alongside my old turntable motor.Beyond my suggestion to buy a new coupler, my only other advice is to NOT repeat my mistake of thinking that I had to remove the entire bottom panel of the microwave to gain access to the motor (doing so would be a mistake and potentially problematic). INSTEAD, I suggest that anyone replacing the turntable motor on this particular GE model use a screwdriver (for the screws) and a small pair of wire snippers to cut a few small (1/8” ish) metal tab pieces (I think it was four?) around the small, mini panel that contains the turntable motor. This mini panel will be obvious and is located in the center area of the panel on the underside of the microwave [btw, if there is a way to remove the small motor panel without snipping tabs, I couldn’t figure it out].Once the panel is removed, the motor is replaced, and the new coupler is installed, you can then screw the small panel back on. [To install the new coupler, you’ll need to make sure it’s seated properly on the shaft of the new motor. You’ll need two hands to do so, one working inside the microwave to put the coupler in the hole and the other to hold the motor in place on the underside of the microwave while you’re seating the coupler on the shaft of the motor]. Note: I also used a pair of small pliers to bend back the edges of the snipped metal tab pieces, but unless you’re planning on running your hand on the underside panel of the microwave, I don’t think that step is a critical one since that part of the microwave sits on the countertop and isn’t accessible unless you turn the microwave on its side.