Try plugging it in first if it doesn't work with battery alone. That will reset the system. And you can return to using batteries again.

I installed this touchless faucet in my office restroom, and it’s been fantastic! The automatic sensor is responsive, and the brushed nickel finish resists fingerprints. Easy to install and operate.

Installation was a breeze (works with batteries or AC), and the motion sensor is super responsive. Love the sleek brushed nickel finish—it looks modern and professional.

The motion sensor works perfectly, making it so easy to use without touching the faucet. The brushed nickel finish gives it a sleek, professional look. It’s also great that it can be powered by either batteries or AC.

Overall, this is the best motion sensing home faucet I have found for a reasonable price.That being said, there are a few things you should consider before purchase. If you are handy with installing faucets (have done it a few times before), you can get through it and you'll probably figure it out as I did (the included instructions are confusing and inaccurate). So if this is your first faucet installation, please get someone to help you and make sure they read these tips.Installation tips:* Don't get too caught up in the installation diagram. It's wrong, mainly because it was designed for a 220V, and possible European and Russian market (the instructions are in English and Russian, which is a bit unusual in the North American market). The parts listed are also wrong if you're ordering this in the U.S. -- the parts you receive should be fine, but the instructions are simply for a different hardware kit so don't pay too much attention to that.* You may need to get some faucet line connectors to fit your situation. The included hot and cold lines didn't fit my situation. The included valve that you'll need to connect your water lines to accepts 1/2" threaded female connectors. The other end will depend on the valve attached to your wall -- and may not be the rather small connector found on the lines included in the kit.* Examine the faucet very carefully before you attempt to seat it into your sink. You'll find a metal "U" bracket but also, below that, a rubber "U" bracket that *you must also remove* if you want the faucet to be flush/level with the top of your sink after you tighten the wing nuts below. It's easy to think all the rubber parts go above the sink line; not so... the rubber "U" piece goes under the sink, before you install the metal "U" bracket. This is atypical for other faucet kits I've used, so figured it is worth mentioning.* You'll need to attach the water line that goes to the faucet *after* you anchor in the faucet first. That may mean, as in my case, you have to get a flashlight and just stick that line up into the faucet under your cabinet and turn it clockwise until it starts to thread in (direct line of sight won't be easy). Make sure your wing nuts are not in the way before you do this. I also recommend putting a bit of pipe tape on the threads in advance, because the black O-rings can be easily damaged and compressed and I suspect may not hold the seal as well as one might like.* The water line leading to the faucet itself appears to be a bit optimistic as in very short. It doesn't give you a lot of play. For sure you should consider carefully where you'll mount the valve box before you anchor it in, making sure the water line will reach the underside of it and still have enough play to wrap around, up, and into the faucet assembly. Just make sure you take a little time to test lengths and positions before you mentally commit to where you're going to place things.* It may depend much on your sink configuration, but I have a standard narrow 3-hole faucet area on my sink. and somehow this faucet seemed to be seated a bit forward (closer to you, the user) than it ought to be. I ended up drilling out a little bit of extra space behind where the anchor screws from the faucet drop to give them a little leeway to move back a quarter inch or so. That allowed to seat this faucet properly and fully cover the open holes. The exposed area before my 'fix" was not much, maybe 1/8" or so, but cosmetically it wasn't perfect so I went ahead with drilling that extra space. If what I'm describing doesn't quite make sense picture dropping your drill bit into the center hole of your sink's faucet mounting area, and shaving off the upper left and upper right interior areas of that center hole just a bit (not drilling down, but using the drill to shave the inside of that hole a bit).* The drop mounting screws that descend from the main faucet might be a little loose on arrival. I recommend using a pliers to gently turn these and make sure they are tight before proceeding (make sure you protect the threads if you will be gripping more than a tiny bit).* Before you mount the valve box directly to your wall with the anchors and screws included, consider that your sink probably already has a wood beam near the top/rear that you might be able to drill into and just use the included screws by themselves. Two less holes in the wall, and for my case this was an optimal position for mounting that box.Post install tips:* Do not assume you have to open your hot and cold valves all the way. That will give you maximum flow from the faucet, but it will also waste a lot of water and you probably don't need full blast anyway. Since this is an automatic faucet, those valves are your only way to control the rate of flow. Consider adjusting these to the flow rate you want before you close your sink cabinet and forget about them.* If you hear a "hammer" sound from your pipes when the water begins to flow, try opening or closing the valves to your hot and cold lines a little until that stops. I found if the valves are closed too far, this can happen.* After a faucet installation I always lay down paper towels inside the cabinet below the sink to make sure all of my valve connections are tight with no leaks. With this unit, I found that connections to the variable temperature valve from the hot and cold lines were not both satisfied by a standard hand tighten plus 1/4" wrench turn. one connection was fine with this; the other wasn't. I was able to overcome it with a little extra wrench tightening (be careful because you can also over tighten such connectors).Considering the above, you can see that a bit of thought and care is required to install this properly. If you've installed faucets before you'll already realize that is usually the case. I have that experience too, but even this kit threw me for a couple of loops before I was able to get that "finished" feel.The faucet itself: For now, this faucet enjoys a little bit of extra gratitude for being one of only a few home-targeted motion activated faucets available at a reasonable (though not entirely cheap for what it is) price. The fabrication plant that put this together isn't pursuing millimeter accuracy so if that bothers you, you might move on; the alignment of the faucet spout and the body seems a bit off to me (when looking very closely). It's also not the best of the best in terms of metal strength / build quality, and the design is a bit bland, but on the whole I'd say the appearance and function will be quite good enough for most. Barring any near-term unexpected failure in normal use, I believe I'll keep it and I expect it will do well.My review may not be the standard for everyone, but I hope this experience report will be helpful to some.