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No hay artículos en el carro HzdaDeve Hotend para Prusa I3 MK3 Cabezal de impresión Cabezal de impresión Disipador de calor Kit de extrusora de rotura de calor para Prusa I3 MK3/Prusa I3 MK3S+ Impresora 3D Reemplazo Hotend
Especificaciones:
Material: aluminio, acero inoxidable y latón.
Diseño volcánico: boquilla de 0,4 mm para filamento de 1,75 mm.
Material del filamento: 1,75 mm con PLA/ABS/PETG/TPU/Madera
Tubo de calefacción: 24 V, 40 W.
Termistor: NTC 100K
Rango de temperatura de funcionamiento: -40 ~ +260 °C (-40 ~ +500 °F)
Instalación sencilla: quita el viejo kit de hotend y reemplaza el nuevo para comenzar. (tubo de calefacción, termistor, boquilla, tubo de garganta y bloque de calefacción, disipador de calor está preinstalado)
Impresora 3D compatible: para Prusa I3 MK3, Prusa I3 MK3S+.
El paquete incluye:
1 kit Hotend para Prusa I3 MK3, Prusa I3 MK3S+.
1 boquilla de 0,2 mm.
2 boquillas de 0,4 mm.
1 boquilla de 0,6 mm.
El interior de la boquilla es suave sin rebabas, lo que no solo reduce la resistencia al aire y evita que el filamento se atasque en el bisel redondeado, sino que también garantiza una larga vida útil y hace que el filamento sea más suave.
Servicio posventa:
Si hay alguna pregunta, simplemente ponte en contacto con nosotros libremente, y se proporcionará una solución satisfactoria en 24 horas
Joshua Vandenbrink
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 1 de marzo de 2025
This was an awesome replacement for my Prusa MK3S+. You get EVERYTHING for ~15 bucks! I rebuilt my hot end with these thermisto/heater/block/nozzles and it prints beautify. I am going to buy another one for a backup.
Sean Edmonds
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 26 de enero de 2025
I needed to replace the thermistor due to the delicate wire breaking. Rather then just repairing the wiring I decided to just go ahead and replace it, but the set screw in the heat block would not come loose. So, I decided I would just replace the entire hot end. Now that I have done it once, it will take me much less time the next time. It still was pretty easy to do once I got going. I have a Prusa MKS+ 3D printer and to buy a replacement from Prusa would have been much more money. I would highly recommend to give this one a try.
Ami Hewlett
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 11 de enero de 2025
It seems okay, but I find the way that it is assembled to be pretty annoying. The thermistor wiring in my machine has a connector to allow me to swap in a new one without having to undo the whole wiring harness spiral; this new one just has a very long white wire for the thermistor, which is less convenient. It also seems to be assembled backwards, with the components installed on the right instead of the left, so I'll need to take it apart and reassemble. Otherwise, it seems like a decent replacement.Edit:Even worse than I thought. Fails to heat up for ABS. Gets to about 140° and then throws a code. I suppose for $15 you get what you pay for. Was 3 stars, now only one.
Sidster2
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 26 de noviembre de 2024
This hotend works fine. Takes a bit to swap it out in a PRUSA for testing due to need to unscrew the covers. It heats up fine to print up to PETG. I haven't tested anything higher than that.I don't know if this is better or worse than the original part, but it will extrude material and woks fine. I removed it to run the original part and will keep this as my backup. Note that I didn't use the thermistor as I used the original one (didn't want to change it out) Likely that will work fine.
Jon Allen
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 2 de noviembre de 2024
It's a little bit on me for not noticing that this has a ptfe heatbreak. But this one is bad even by the low bar set by most ptfe heatbreaks.Sooner or later the PTFE in these things breaks down. Sooner if you print petg because even petg temperatures are too high for these, even though they usually advertise compatibility.PTFE is teflon and fumes from burning teflon is like really bad. So that is definitely the biggest problem...PTFE heatbreaks are literally poison.But the second issue is that when they start breaking down, then plastic from your melted filament will get stuck and burned into the gaps that the crumbling PTFE leaves. This will cause partial clogging. This will cause all kinds of really hard to diagnose issues with your prints. Just all your prints will suddenly start coming out complete crap for no reason whatsoever. If you are lucky then you will get a full clog before you spent too much time trying to figure out what is going on.Usually the ptfe tube in these things goes all the way through the throat to the top of the heat sink. This allows you to repair them by just pulling out the tube from the top and sliding a new on in. Of course if the length of the new one isn't perfect then it will just start clogging again immediately...qqBut in this thing, the throat first narrows to the diameter of the filament, and then widens back up to make room for the ptfe. Meaning that you have no access to the tube unless you completely dismantle your hotend. There is also more breaks in the filament path which give extra opportunities for jams.The good news is that if you wind up with this hotend, then it uses a standard m7 thread for the heat sink and m6 for the heater block. So it should be very easy to find an all metal replacement throat.But why bother. It's unlikely that this thing is going to be a good deal when you factor in the cost of the new throat, let alone the hassle. Just get a hot end with an all metal throat and you will be happier.
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