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ENLACES DE BARRA SWAY PREMIUM
Desde el estilo de enchufe hasta el innovador diseño de tuerca de bloqueo de barril, MOOG tiene un eslabón de barra estabilizadora para tu automóvil. Con innovaciones de resolución de problemas para una larga vida útil, MOOG utiliza diferentes tecnologías de barra estabilizadora basadas en la aplicación de su vehículo.
MOOG ofrece tres enlaces de barra oscilante diferentes:
Estilo de zócaloTuerca de bloqueo de barril (estilo perno) H
Estilo de zó
Hecho de materiales de primera calidad para una fiabilidad duradera, los eslabones de barra estabilizadora MOOG tienen innovaciones de resolución de problemas, como un enchufe engrasable para eliminar contaminantes, bota sellada para proteger los componentes internos, llaves planas para una fácil instalación y varilla de conexión gruesa para mayor resistencia.
Convencional/Tuerca de bloqueo de barril (estilo perno)
Hecho de materiales de primera calidad para una fiabilidad duradera, los eslabones de barra estabilizadora convencionales MOOG tienen innovaciones de resolución de problemas, como bujes moldeados que mantienen las arandelas recubiertas en su lugar y fáciles de roscar de 1 pulgada. La tuerca de bloqueo del barril hace que sea más fácil de instalar que los eslabones tradicionales de la barra estabilizadora.
Estilo híbrido
Combinando las mejores características de los eslabones de barra estabilizadora estilo zócalo y perno, los eslabones de barra estabilizadora híbrida MOOG cuentan con innovaciones de resolución de problemas, como un protector de maletero integral para mantener la suciedad y el agua fuera, enchufe engrasable para eliminar contaminantes, bujes precargados, diseño de parada para minimizar la sensibilidad al par de instalación y bujes moldeados para una fácil instalación.
¿QUÉ SON LOS ENLACES DE LA BARRA SWAY
Un componente crítico de la suspensión, el eslabón de la barra estabilizadora une la barra estabilizadora a la suspensión del vehículo. Los eslabones de la barra estabilizadora cuentan con bujes para ayudar a garantizar un funcionamiento silencioso y una conducción suave. ¿Crees que tus enlaces de barra estabilizadora están fallando? Los eslabones desgastados de la barra estabilizadora pueden contribuir a la holgura de la dirección y ruidos extraños al conducir sobre baches o hacer giros. En casos extremos, un eslabón desgastado podría separarse haciendo que el vehículo se incline excesivamente al girar.
Ruido de ruido mientras conduce
Un mal enlace de la barra estabilizadora puede causar un ruido de ruido mientras se conduce. También puede escuchar el sonido al conducir sobre golpes o hacer giros. Escuche los ruidos inusuales provenientes del área de la rueda.
El vehículo se inclina al girar
Si su vehículo se inclina excesivamente mientras gira o si experimenta balanceo de la carrocería, estas son señales de que podría haber algo mal con los eslabones de la barra estabilizadora.
Daño en baches
Correr repetidamente sobre baches puede tener un efecto perjudicial en el sistema de suspensión de su vehículo. Si golpea un bache grande, busque signos de problemas de suspensión como: tocar fondo, rebote excesivo y pérdida de control, vibración en el volante, dirección suelta, tracción del automóvil hacia un lado o desgaste desigual de los neumáticos.
Rich Tason
Comentado en Canadá el 5 de mayo de 2024
Far superior to oem. We have rough roads, original replacement lasted less than a year.
Jesús R.
Comentado en México el 31 de diciembre de 2024
Excelente producto, claramente se ve la diferencia de calidad de la pieza nueva a la pieza dañada. Espero dure mucho tiempo
Jacek Majewski
Comentado en Canadá el 12 de septiembre de 2023
Terrible suspension noise. I traced it to the sway bar link by bouncing, then lifting the car and tapping banging on the link. Hard to do when there is weight on the suspension. Removing the old one was hard, totally rusted and I had to cut it with an angle grinder. Installation is a couple of minutes.
Dan
Comentado en Canadá el 9 de julio de 2022
Perfect fit for my 2015 Impreza.Make sure the top grease port points towards the back of the car. My review image is the driver side taken from the front of the car looking back.These were installed today in an effort to silence a clunk from a previous link that was also an amazon purchase, but lesser quality and only lasted a year. These are much thicker, and definitely worth the extra $ paid for an upgrade compared to oem. I greased them up before installing, don't forget to do this as they felt gritty out of the box. Needed more grease. When the boot expands just a bit, you know they're full. Can immediately feel the difference, no mure clunk. Only took a few minutes to install as an average diy home mechanic who does all repairs in the driveway. This listing sells each link individually when I made the purchase, so be sure to buy 2 units if you are replacing both links at the same time.
T. Williams
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 5 de abril de 2019
These are expensive compared to the cost of the Chinesium garbage that seems to be taking over Amazon. Save yourself some headaches, and just buy the good ones to begin with. These are much larger than the stock links, and when I installed them, I was afraid they were going to hit the swaybar, and/or a arm, but once I put the car back on the ground, the suspension settled down, and there is plenty of clearance. Some tips for easier installation:1. There is a sticker attached that tells you how to orient the zerks so they don't get sheared off. Make sure you pay attention to that.2. You need to loosen the sway bar bushings to do this job, so I recommend just replacing those at the same time. They were around $12, and it took an extra 5 minutes to cut them and install them. You can attach them without cutting, but cutting them does not decrease their performance, and makes it a whole lot easier. Be sure to grease them so they don't squeak.3. Removing the old links will be the hardest part of this job. The bolt will be rusted, and there is nothing to grip to loosen it. Forget trying to use a hex wrench in the end in conjunction with a box end wrench.. At least on mine, it was way to slow, and the nut was on way too tight. The way they are constructed is that there is a ball on the end of the stud surrounded by a plastic sleeve, and attached to a metal cap. That's the 4 little blue circles you see on the end cap. The easiest and by far fastest way to remove these is to place a large screw driver on the flange of the metal cap, and strike with a hammer. You don't have to whack it hard. Medium velocity is plenty. Do this on the top and the bottom of the old links. The metal part will separate from the plastic fairly easily. Once the metal cap is off, do the same thing to remove the plastic sleeve. clamp vice grips on the ball stud that remains, and use a 14mm socket to remove the nut. Trust me, this will save you endless time an hassle.3. The nut on the new end link is 15 mm, the one on the stud is 18mm.4. I have seen several brands of sway bar links over the years, and these are by far the most robust I have seen. Those who are not rating them 5 stars, I have no idea what they are used to using, but I would love to see them because I personally have never seen a better built link. I obviously cannot comment on their durability at this point, but from what I have seen, I am not worried about premature failure. I will update my review if these turn out to be not as good as I expect they will be.NOTE: The ones I received are different from those pictured. I believe Moog has changed the design as it has the same product number. The zerks are now on the side of the cap instead of the back, but they still fit as long as you orient them as instructed with the top zerk toward the back.
Fred Oliver
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 12 de marzo de 2017
These replaced original equipment links on the front end of a 2007 Subaru Outback. Though the OEM links still seemed to be in decent condition, I had to remove them to replace the bushings, so took the opportunity to replace the links as well. Removal and replacement of the original links required holding an Allen wrench in the stud while simultaneously turning an wrench on the nut-a process that is tedious even without rust. As a result, I was happy to replace them with parts that are much easier to install. Furthermore, these units are much beefier than the OEM parts, which I had already replaced once before due to breakage. These parts, with their grease fittings, add a retro touch to a modern vehicle, which may be something to consider if you don't have a grease gun. Because the studs have a wrench fitting, installation is a snap-place a 19 mm wrench on the squared part of the stud, a 15 mm socket on the nut, tighten away. They even made the stud and nut diameters in sizes compatible with 3/4 and 5/8 SAE wrenches-how clever. As previous reviewers have noted, these parts have an orientation because of the placement of the grease fittings. If you install them upside down the control arm will obstruct one of the zerks. These parts, like the Energy Suspension bushings I installed at the same time, are an unusual, in my experience maintaining Subaru cars, example of a part that is better than the original. They are hecho en Mexico.
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