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Dan
Comentado en Australia el 21 de marzo de 2025
I bought this because I needed very clear parts with minimal yellowing. I’d read other reviews that suggested it was the foods and I wasn’t disappointed.Word to the wise, dial the exposure time down as low as you can get it before prints start failing.It still yellows a little, but if 0 was glass and 10 was fully yellowed this is a 1, maybe 1.5
B.O.
Comentado en los Países Bajos el 19 de marzo de 2025
Hele krachtige resin. Let op: goed uitharden! Tijdens het uitharden verwarmen is nog beter. Getoonde onderdelen zijn Trident onderdelen van een Akai bandrecorder. De onderdelen zijn wel wat doorzichtig.
Robin
Comentado en España el 6 de junio de 2024
Casi termino la botella, ¿mi conclusión? Gran resina, sin impresiones fallidas, sin deformaciones, impresiones fuertes y estéticamente agradables. Como la resina es bastante espesa, la imprimo a 35°C con el calentador de mi cámara de resina. Tenga en cuenta que a esa temperatura debe reducir el tiempo de exposición.
Tanzanite Toolkit
Comentado en Canadá el 3 de junio de 2024
I've been resin 3d printing for about 2 years now, and own two printers a mars 2 pro and mars 4 dlp. And outside a very short period in time at the start I've been using almost exclusively Sirayas blu resin line with the occasional bottle of Siraya's fast white because this blu nylon mecha is so expensive. I can't understate how much of a mistake that was.Nylon mecha is worth every penny if you want a strong white resin. The color of fast white is a bit "off" and yellows during post cure and the result is barely passable for dyeing(yes you can use RIT synthetic dye on white/transparent blu resins as long as the part can handle the hot water without deforming) and completely unusable as a pure white print. Nylon mecha on the other hand is a brilliant white and doesn't yellow at all which makes it perfect for dyeing prints to color after printing or using it as is.I cut mine with about 25% blu clear v2 which doesn't noticeably effect the white color but it does help reducing the cost of printing in nylon mecha without sacrificing strength. Other than the cost I have no complaints. This prints exactly the same as the obsidian black in that you really want to heat the print chamber. When it comes to post processing take care NOT to mix this with any IPA that has been used at any point for black or dark colored resins, its best practice to have separate IPA just for white prints as it is very sensitive to absorbing the color in the IPA solution.Between Blue Clear v2, Mecha White, and Obsidian Black and a selection of rit syntheic dyes you can resin print and color the prints to basically any color you want and the parts are super strong and as bio-compatible as consumer resin prints get.Personal plea to sirayatech - Please release this in larger bottles, at least 1kg. But while your at it please bring the fabled 5kg bottles in stock for Canadian customers for Blu Clear v2/Obsidian Black. I am literally swimming in empty 1kg bottles its such a waste of plastic.
Gabriel Gutierrez Ponce
Comentado en México el 2 de mayo de 2024
Facil de usar, excelente acabado, piezas resistentes y precisas
Cliente de
Comentado en México el 18 de diciembre de 2024
Una gran resina con excelente resistencia, para prototipos funcionales es la mejor opción
Steve
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 31 de diciembre de 2023
I can't sing the praises of this resin enough. Not only does it print beautifully, but you can get all the details you'd ever want just by being careful with your layer exposure settings (You can get any amount of flexibility/hardness depending on the amount of time spent curing.5 minutes or less of curing, and it's so flexible that it's basically a nylon. 5 to 10 minutes of curing it's not nearly as flexible, it gets harder but still doesn't break easily.It took me 30 minutes of curing to get it to a point where I could snap off supports with my fingers; anything less than that, a good pair of toenail clippers will be required.Ideal print settings on a Creality HALOT MAGE (regular, not pro) are 0.25mm layer size. 1s light delay. 2 - 3s per layer with 3 to 5 bottom layers at 10 to 30s, depending on the weight of the model.At 10s, you can easily just tug firmly, and it comes right off the build plate. At 30s, I was using a metal spatula and a rubber hammer to get it off, (it still didn't break, but I did have to completely realign my print head).If you want a really cool effect, mix this 50/50 with the Sunlu "abs-like" resins in blue or red.It also mixes so well with other resins. It's my go-to resin to fix other resins. I even used this to fix the super crappy Yousu silver resin.I wish I could buy this stuff by the drum.Long story short, this is the best resin I've ever tried, and completely worth the money.*I use the AnyCubic Wash and Cure 3 for curing, but you can also cure in direct sunlight, and the properties get really interesting.
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