No hay artículos en el carro
No hay artículos en el carroEntrada: CC 3 V a 40 V (el entrada de voltaje debe ser más alto que el voltaje de salida a 1,5 V por encima no puede aumentar). Salida: CC 1,5 V a 35 V voltaje continuamente ajustable, corriente de salida máxima de alta eficiencia de 3 A. Características: todos los condensadores sólidos SANYO, las placas de circuito de espesamiento 36u, inductancia de alta Q con valor de salida del indicador LED de alta potencia. Dimensiones: 45 (L) x 20 (W) x 14 (H) mm (con potenciómetro)
cowboy
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 18 de mayo de 2021
Using to take common high amp 12v dc adapters to hard to find voltages or to battery equivalents. At 1.5v the led shuts off completely, kind of annoying but not a deal breaker. Slightly dimmed at 3v. Everything above 5v is full eye piercing bright blue.Seems to be fairly efficient, in the quick tests i did no heat generation. Once i get a few under real loads if i get heat ill throw on a heatsink and update this.
James C.
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 13 de septiembre de 2020
did not work
TinkerPit
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 4 de noviembre de 2016
They work beautifully and cost less than I could make them myself when you account for the components and board space. Having the regulator sitting on a separate board makes mapping out your board easier and makes it easier to provide adequate cooling to the regulator.If you replace the potentiometer with a 1k resistor, it becomes a 5V 3A regulator. Very handy.
Anonymous
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 8 de marzo de 2015
Excellent little buck converter. Does what it advertises and seems to perform very well. The only thing to remember is to adjust them BEFORE you hook anything up as every one of them has been set to max output.
dauntless
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 9 de agosto de 2014
I got these because I generally use a lot of 3 terminal regulators for various projects. These can be treated just like an adjustable standard 3T positive regulator. The board has plus and minus in and out marked, but minus is common and you only need to connect one wire. It will maintain its set output voltage even with no load.I had occasion to use the first one yesterday. I have a pair of LED indoor/outdoor thermometers with a display that is really too bright for night time use. I wired a single pole double throw switch, in one position it gets a full twelve volts, and in the other it goes to the output of the buck converter and only sends 3 volts to the temperature display. The buck regulator is wired so it is always on.There is no heat rise in the IC that I can feel with my fingers. For mounting I just put a section of 3/4" heat shrink tubing around it then used a cork boring tool to cut a circle so the trim pot could be accessed, and put it inside the thermometer enclosure.There are two drilled holes with a connection to ground/minus to use for mounting (looks like a 4-40 screw might work). The on/off terminal on the regulator is wired so it is always on - but it would be easy enough to de-solder that leg and bring it out if you needed that feature. The back side of the board appears to be a ground plane, but the input filter cap, output filter cap, and pot are soldered through so you can't mount it directly to a piece of metal without shorting it out. The picture seems to show surface mount tantalum caps, the boards I received have radial aluminum electrolytic caps with through-hole mounting. All were shipped in one padded envelope, and each one was sealed in it's own anti-static bag.
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